Feb 12, 2012

Around the globe in 380 days

"Heureux qui, comme Ulysse, a fait un beau voyage
[Happy is he who, like Ulysses, has made a wonderful journey]"
Joachim du Bellay, Les Regrets, sonnet XXXI, 1558.

Welcome to this travel blog compiling our 380 days of trip through four continents! We decided to both leave our jobs, families and friends, and go live the dream!

For more details about the preparation of our trip, you can consult the articles about the itinerary, our equipment, all financial aspects, health and administrative stuff.

As what you are reading is the last article of this blog we prepared several thematic slide shows for you to browse through some images of our trip around the globe, selected between more than 21.000 pictures!! Lucky you! :)





 
What did we see in one year? Capitals and tiny villages, buildings and all kind of houses, rainforests, lakes, rivers, beaches, volcanoes, mountains, exotic and less exotic animals, the richest and the poorest. We now have in mind countless images of landscapes and cityscapes.




 
We visited some of the natural and human-made wonders of the world (like Petra, the Taj Mahal, Angkor, Ha Long Bay, the Great Wall of China and the Forbidden City, the Macchu Pitchu, the Grand Canyon, the Galapagos Islands, the Salar de Uyuni, the Patagonia, etc.) and assisted to some great popular events like India winning the Cricket World Cup final while we were in New Delhi or the amazing atmosphere in New Zealand during the Rugby World Cup 2011.

More than that, traveling gave us the opportunity of knowing better and experiencing various cultural aspects of the areas we visited: from food or craft industry to clothing, from cultural expressions in the street (street art, live music and dances) to religious ceremonies (on the banks of the Gange river in Varanasi, gospel mass in New York, etc.).





 
Culture is not only museums; live performances are very much alive all around the globe: water puppet show in Hanoi, traditional dances in Sumatra and Bali, opera in the Opera House of Sydney, aboriginal dances in Australia or New Zealand, jazz concerts in a New Orleans, Cuban contemporanean dance performance in Cienfuegos, etc. To watch some of our musical encounters, have look at our Youtube channel!!

So.. what did we prefer? After visiting 32 countries and 153 cities, it is impossible for us to answer this kind of question. We enjoyed a lot discovering Syria, Nepal, Malaysia and the Galapagos islands. We could easily picture ourselves living in Hong Kong, New York or Buenos Aires. We would love to go back to Nepal, Thailand, Indonesia or New Zealand. And we are sad we had no time to visit Lebanon, Burma and Japan.

Generally speaking we felt less comfortable traveling in countries run by authoritarian regimes such as Iran or Cuba. Visiting China was one of our biggest challenges, especially because of the language barrier. We were not prepared enough to the shock that India sparks off. But one thing is for sure: there is no place or country we regret having visited!





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What does traveling for 380 days mean? It means:
  • Covering 125 132 kilometers (i.e. more than 3 times the circumference of Earth),
  • Taking 70 intercity buses, 48 planes, 24 trains and 8 ferryboats,
  • Thus spending 945 hours in transportation (i.e. 39 full days!!),
  • And waiting 261 hours (i.e. 11 full days) in airports, bus and train stations,
  • Sleeping in 158 different beds and 25 overnight transfers,
  • Visiting 153 cities in 32 countries on 4 continents,
  • Changing currency 30 times,
  • And spending countless hours online to prepare all that!!

And in everyday life?
  • Being nomads, always carrying our house on our back.
  • No clothing extravaganza as we only carried three T-shirts and two pants each.
  • Having to wash by hands our clothing every two or three days (well the drying part – often with an hair dryer – may be the most difficult).
  • Always having water, soap and toilet paper (in some countries toilet paper is a precious good!) in our bag.
  • Prepare most of our meals in underequipped kitchens of hostels.
  • Bad sleep, snoring or smelly roomates, back pains, showers with cold water, etc.
  • Missing  a few family parties and job opportunities.
  • And losing (not that much) kilos.
But does it worth it? Without a doubt!!! :)





How did this one-year-trip change us? We like to think that traveling enriches us. Our adventure gave us perspective, a lot of comparison points, and a global idea of what the world looks like at the beginning of the 2010s.. We feel lucky we were born in free developed countries where there is no war or dictatorship at the present time.

This trip has reinforced our belief in the virtues of tenacity. Something like the motto: "When one want one can".

The most important thing is that we loved what we were doing – traveling – and never lost the curiosity and motivation, even when tired or trapped in crappy circumstances. Well knowing we would visit and learn new things every day helped! ;)


Another thing, we were somehow resigned to be robbed of our wallet, laptop or camera and we are still surprised it did not happened. Which just shows that the world is really not a dangerous place and a lot of bad situations can be avoided as long as one follows basic preventive measures, and try to respect the customs and rules of the society one is in.

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They are multiple ways of traveling. We opted for the organized one long ago. It seemed to us that it was easier to keep our budget line if we booked in advance plane/bus/train tickets as well as rooms. The cheap and good value for money hostels/hotels are stormed and often full, especially if you arrive late at night. We did not want to look for a room on site, in an unknown city with our backpack to carry.

We are happy our budget forecasts were mostly accurate and we managed to spend no more money than anticipated. It is a great achievement as good reasons for spending  are numerous and frequent! Staying in line with our budget was one of our main concern during the trip. We realized it would have been extremely difficult (or even impossible) to do this project with less money.


Here are some habits we took that could be named our "top traveler tips":
  • We always had in our bag a pack of biscuits and some pasta in case of emergency.
  • We often double or triple check when asking a direction. Some people were too polite to tell us they did not know the place where we wanted to go.
  • We got as much information as possible from guide books, hostel front desks, other travelers, infomation center especially about the prices when they are not fixed.
  • Five stars hotels are great places to hang out and to wait for a late bus/train/plane: comfortable coaches and free luggage storage (nobody will ask you if you are a client or not ;).
  • State libraries are sometimes the only places in a city to have free internet access.

We hope our blog may be of use for anyone planning a long or a short trip abroad. At the time of concluding this blog, it had a total of 28 150 pageviews, mostly from France (24%), Portugal (13,5%), United States (11%), India (5,5%) and Germany (5%).

Last but not least we would like to thank all the persons that openned us their homes and shared with us their experiences and knowledge, especially about their region/country. We spent with them our most memorable evenings. We are very grateful to Damiano & Stefano, Mohammad & Parisa, Ruth, Phillys & Gina, Patrick, Baran, Astrid, Anaïs & Guillaume, Szidonia, Simon & Rick, Whitney, Mira, Eric, Sara, Josip, David & Iona, Pavel & Elitsa, Ali, Paola, François & Karina, Radu, Yong, Catherine, Richard & Zuzana, Sheryl, Celia & Alex, Yuji, Rebekah, Cheng, Jen & Andrew, Vicky & Dave, Natalie, and Alfredo.

Some other new friends:





So what do we do now? Well to look for a job seems unavoidable. Also to order a new passport with white sheets. We never know.. ;) 


Feb 6, 2012

Argentina - Buenos Aires

For the last stop of this 380 days journey, we picked a city we knew we both would love, Buenos Aires. We spent nine days in the capital of Argentina, visiting little by little every day and organizing a few thing as well for our return in Europe.

Luckily the weather was splendid, very warm and sunny, with some stormy passages. At the same moment Europe was recovered by a cold wave coming from Siberia. We fear the climatic shock a lot! ;)

 Plaza Lavalle


Buenos Aires suits perfectly our European mood and our taste for big cities. It is not really beautiful per say - the nice colonial buildings are often surrounded by not so nice buildings – but the city combines the advantages of big metropolis (public transportation, a lot of shopping and nightlife options, etc.), a familiar grandeur of European cities with a clearly Latin-American atmosphere.
 
 Plaza de Mayo

 Plaza del Congresso

 Plaza Cortázar

 Galerías Pacífico


Part of the charm of Buenos Aires is in the elegant old-world cafes, restaurants and bookstores. And of course we caught a night tango show (in the Centro Cultural Borges)!

 
El Gato Negro 

 Brasserie Pétanque (with the Ricard chairs!!)

 Bookstore Ateneo Grand Splendid


The district we liked the most was San Telmo, with its numerous bars and restaurants, an indoor market mixing antique stores and fruit counters, which livens up every Sunday with a crowded and kind of crazy outdoor fair.

Calle Defensa

San Telmo antique market

San Telmo fair, Plaza Dorrego

San Telmo market

We attended a great introduction to the History of Buenos Aires in a totally private museum called El Zanjón de Granados. The landlord bought a dilapidated 1830 mantion twenty-seven years ago in order to turn it into a restaurant. But the workers found below earth a Daedalus of wide vaulted brick tunnels (a former riverbed), water wells and citerns. The whole had been wonderfully restored with tasteful architectural and design features.

Explanations by the owner himself!!



A historical wind also blows every Thursday at 3:30 pm in the Plaza de Mayo: the  Mothers of Plaza de Mayo have been demonstrating for thirty-five years in memory of their children who disappeared during the military dictatorship in Argentina. Very poignant!



Feb 2, 2012

Uruguay - Montevideo/Colonia del Sacramento

Montevideo is a small cosmopolitan capital and the main port of Uruguay, lying on the bank of the Río de la Plata. The Ciudad Vieja (Old Town) displays a rich architectural heritage of colonial, 19th-century neoclassical and Art Deco buildings. 


But we were quite sad to see that the true value of this heritage is not appreciated and a lot of ancient buildings are in an advanced state of dilapidation. This part of the city  remembered us of Havana.

At the beginning of Escollera Sarandí



Montevideo has an abundance of markets where we have loved to get lost. A great way to feel the local ambiance!

Plaza Matriz

Mercado del Puerto

Mercado del Puerto

Feria de Tristán Narvaja

 Mate pots with their bombilla (the straw/filter) used for the traditional South American drink, Feria de Tristán Narvaja


In downtown, Plaza Independencia is a city landmark. It hosts a building which was once South America’s tallest, the beautiful Palacio Salvo. East of downtown (30 minutes walk), Playa Pocitos offers sandy sunbathing and the opportunity of swimming in the huge river, both more than welcome after a day of urban walking!;)

 Puerta de la Ciudadela, Plaza Independencia and Palacio Salvo

 Playa Pocitos

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In fact Montevideo was first founded by Spanish to compete with the Portuguese colony of Colonia do Sacramento located across the bay from Buenos Aires. The fortified city set on a peninsula – the oldest town of Uruguay - is now called Barrio Histórico (historic quarter) and became the star tourist attraction of the country and not without reasons!


View over the Barrio Histórico from the lighthouse

 Plaza Mayor 25 de Mayo
 
The atmospheric maze of cobblestone streets has an undeniable charm as well as the old colorful tiny portuguese houses. Actually the city changed hands a dozen times from  Portuguese to Spanish and vice versa, to end up under the control of Brazil shortly before the independence of Uruguay.


 Calle de los Suspiros


Every point of interest or small museum is within walking distance. A nice town to rest and chill out!

 Moelle 1866

Jan 26, 2012

Argentina - El Calafate/El Chaltén

Eighty kilometers from El Calafate we visited one of the most famous attractions of Argentina, the Perito Moreno Glacier, located in the Los Glaciares National Park.


This icefield of 250 km2 advances, forming a natural barrier cutting in two the Lago Argentino



From the walking circuit – a set of walkways and lookouts at various vantage points – we could see both faces of the glacier (one on each side of the Lake), a  five kilometers wide wall of ice. The wall rises up to 70 meters above the level of the Lake and hides 170 meters under the water.


The glacier seems nearly alive as every three to four minutes a piece of ice collapses utturing the noise of a cannon-shot or a flash of lightning which echoes in the immensity. The show is fascinating and we spent hours waiting for the next break of ice with our camera on.

 
Splash!

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To recover from our intense program of the previous days (with a lot of hours spent in buses) we decided to stay three days in a small mountain village in the middle of the Argentinian Patagonia: El Chaltén.


The road leading there is straight and not very busy. From time to time we passed small groups of people of all ages on bicycles. The road offers quite amazing panoramas in particular just before arriving in the city.



The unique activity of El Chaltén is tourism. Trekkers and climbers from all over the world come to El Chaltén to enjoy the divine landscape and trekking trails. 


We went to the Park ranger office where we got a map and a few orientations about the trails we could follow. So two days in a row we went out for nature exploration. The local landscapes are gorgeous and the paths well-marked.



As January is the peak season, all hostels were full. It was actually hard to find one, even booking four days in advance. We ended up in a Hostelling International accomodation, one of those sleeping factory that only international backpacking can produce. It felt like staying in a busy and dirty train station. The hostel was crowded, the bathrooms dirty, there was an infestation of flyes and no toilet in the entire hostel had a deadbolt! 


 In a bus. The foot odor is not only annoying in the dorms! :/

Jan 22, 2012

Argentina - Ushuaia

Leaving Punta Arenas, we headed toward Ushuaia the southermost city of Argentina. We crossed the Magellan Strait to get from the continent to the archipelago called Tierra del Fuego.

Ferryboat Primera Angostura


Ushuaia is located at the south of the Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego, the biggest island of the archipelago which is actually the largest island of South America! This island is divided between Chile and Argentina.

The bus took seven or eight hours to go through the Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego to Ushuaia. At the beginning, the horizon is quite flat and the dry vegetation melts brown and green colors.


After a few hours this lanscape becomes quite boring. But getting clother to Ushuaia some hills are emerging and then mountains, the Andes!



On our way out of the Tierra del Fuego we had to cross Chile again before arriving on the Argentinian mailand. We had bought some fruits to eat during the 18 hours trip to El Calafate. Unfortunately we learned at the border that it is forbidden to enter Chile with fruits. The only option we had: to eat all the fruits we could before going back to the bus. Or how to eat five plums, three bananas, two apples, two peaches, and two tomatoes in less than ten minutes and in front of a border officer? :/

******


Ushuaia appeared to us as a strange mix between a ski resort and a small harbour. The city who was once a village populated mostly by convicts has become a tourist center.


Calle San Martín


As a matter of fact the former prison has been transformed into a huge museum, the Museo Marítimo y Ex Presidio, including various sections: about Ushuaia, the Antarctica, the convict system and it even hosts a contemporary art gallery! Very informative!

The last prisoner... ;)

Historic wing

Gift shop

Art gallery


Coming to Ushuaia is quite expensive. So are the various activities, cruises and trips starting from here. For example 90% of the tourists going to Antartica departs from Ushuaia. In fact the south of Latin America is one of the few places of the world where we saw a lot of mature people traveling in a nearly backpacking mode. For example we shared a dorm with a Danish couple in their sixties. And the town restaurants were full of seniors at lunch and dinner time.

Ushuaia harbour at 4.30pm

Ushuaia harbour at 4.30am

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To make the most of our time at the self-proclaimed "End of the world", we went on a six hours cruise along the Canal Beagle. A few operators offer similar excursions of wildlife watching. All boats seamed to be full. In our ship, there were at least 200 people. The cruise took us to the local attractions: islands covered with cormorants and sea lions.

Isla de los Pájaros

Isla de los Pájaros

Isla de los Lobos

We went then to the Pingüinera passing in front of Les Eclaireurs lighthouse. From Canal Beagle's grey water we admired rocky isles and the mountainous shores covered by a few glaciers.

Faro Les Eclaireurs

Pingüinera